Pirate Lore Galore

The 12 miles from the ferry to the National Park campground was an epic ride. The only access on or off the island is by ferry, so once we got off the boat, we had the road virtually to ourselves the whole way. The sun was warm,with the Atlantic surf pounding on our left (east) and the birds of the salt marshes chirping and singing to our right. We were pedaling along a ribbon of highway without a care in the world. It had been our intention to use the National Park facilities throughout our Outer Banks tour, but were disappointed to learn that all but one site had closed for the season on Columbus Day. Ocracoke was still open, and believe us, it was well worth the effort to get there. We pitched our tent along the dunes, with the Atlantic Ocean breaking just a 100 yards or so away. The night was moonless and the Milky Way put on a spectacular display. The winds of Hatteras had kicked into gear, and it was bit of a challenge to cook dinner. We fashioned a makeshift windbreak with available materials, but can tell you that our campstoves really are not designed to operate at peak efficency in 20~30 mph gusts. It was also one of the coldest nights we had experienced on the trip. Our sleeping bags have been fantastic, but were truly put to the test that evening. They are rated as being comfortable down to 40F, which is true when you have virtually all your clothes on along with wearing a beanie cap. But we came through with flying colors and awoke the next morning to take a leisurely 4 mile spin into the only town on the island, enjoy a cream cheese danish and cup of stout coffee before catching the ferry that would take us back to the mainland.

Ocracoke is a small harbor village, reminding us of places we have visited in the San Juan and Gulf Islands of Washington and British Columbia. It has retained much of it's early charm and character, serving as a home for fishermen. It is now a quiet tourist town, where people walk or ride the flat streets on ballon tire bikes. But it has a notorious history as a hiding place for pirates. Blackbeard often escaped his pursuers by fleeing to shallow waters near Ocracoke Inlet.

During The Golden Age of Piracy (1689-1718), numerous rogues pursued their lawless and murderous trade throughout the New World. Restrictive laws passed by the British Parliament had made smuggling acceptable and even desirable in North Carolina and the other American colonies. Preying upon lightly armed merchant ships, the pirates seized their contents and sometimes killed those who resisted. Because of its shallow sounds and inlets, North Carolina's Outer Banks became a haven for many of these outlaws in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Blackbeard was the most notorious pirate in the history of seafaring. With a beard that almost covered his face, he would strike terror into the hearts of his victims, according to some early accounts, by weaving wicks laced with gunpowder into his hair, and lighting them during battle. A big man, he added to his menacing appearance by wearing a crimson coat, two swords at his waist, and bandoleers stuffed with numerous pistols and knives across his chest. The sight of Blackbeard was enough to make most of his victims surrender without a fight.

If they gave up peacefully, he would usually take their valuables, navigational instruments, weapons, and rum before allowing them to sail away. If they resisted, he would often maroon the crews and burn their ship. Blackbeard worked hard at establishing his devilish image, but there is no archival evidence to indicate that he ever killed anyone who was not trying to kill him. Blackbeard's lawless career lasted only a few years, but his fearsome reputation has long outlived him. Blackbeard was killed in a bloody battle at Ocracoke Inlet on November 22, 1718. During the action, Blackbeard received a reported five musketball wounds and more than 20 sword lacerations before dying. Blackbeard had captured over 40 ships during his piratical career, and his death virtually represented the end of an era in the history of piracy in the New World.

We met no pirates that day. Instead, on the ferry ride to the mainland, we encountered 3 cyclists from the Cape Fear Bicycle Club who were out for a "leisurely 100 mile training ride" who proved to be a wealth of information about the trail ahead. Before alighting, Steve (one of the cyclists) invited us to stay with him in the Wilmington area...another random act of kindness that has come our way. It was a most gracious offer, and one we simply couldn't pass up. We bid "adieu", promising to call once we knew our schedule more precisely, and proceeded on into the "Down East" Country of the North Carolina mainland.

When we started out onto the Outer Banks, we were wondering if we had made the right choice. It took the better part of two days to get there, and the traffic was more than we have come accustomed to in rural areas. During tourist season, it would have been a nightmare. But the night in Ocracoke and the ride through the National Seashore area was definitely worth all the effort, providing memories that will surely last a lifetime.